Can you keep a backyard fire pit safe? The answer is a resounding yes, but it takes more than just buying one and lighting it up. I've seen too many people skip the basics, and honestly, it's a recipe for disaster. From my own experience, a few simple precautions — like choosing the right materials, placing it far enough from anything flammable, and always keeping a fire extinguisher close — make all the difference between a relaxing evening and a trip to the ER. Let me walk you through the practical steps I use every time, so you can enjoy your fire pit without the worry.
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- 1、Are Backyard Fire Pits Safe?
- 2、Choosing the Right Fire Pit Materials and Location
- 3、Fire Pit Safety Tips
- 4、Emergency Preparedness and What to Do If Something Goes Wrong
- 5、Choosing the Right Fire Pit Type for Your Needs
- 6、Seasonal Maintenance and Long-Term Care
- 7、Common Myths and Misconceptions About Fire Pit Safety
- 8、FAQs
Are Backyard Fire Pits Safe?
You might be wondering — can you really enjoy a backyard fire pit without putting your family at risk? The short answer is yes, but only if you take the right precautions. I've seen too many people skip the basics and end up with a dangerous setup. Safety starts before you even strike a match.
Understanding the Real Risks
Honestly, most fire pit accidents happen because people underestimate how quickly things can go wrong. A stray spark, a gust of wind, or a kid getting too close — these small moments turn into big problems fast.
I've talked to homeowners who thought their fire pit was safe because it looked sturdy, but they ignored the distance from their house. One guy I know placed his portable pit on a wooden deck, and within ten minutes the deck boards started smoking. Heat transfers through metal bottoms way faster than you'd expect, and wood decks catch fire at surprisingly low temperatures — around 300°F. That's not much hotter than your oven. You also need to watch for low-hanging branches, dry grass, and even plastic furniture nearby. Wind direction matters more than most people realize. I always check the forecast before lighting up, because embers can travel 20 feet or more and land on something flammable without you noticing. The risk isn't just to your property — it's to your neighbors too. If you live in a suburban area, a fire pit that's too close to a fence or shed puts everyone at risk. That's why knowing how to make a safe fire pit isn't just about the build — it's about understanding where fire wants to go and planning around it.
What Local Codes Say
Before you dig a hole or buy a portable fire pit, check your local ordinances. I know it sounds boring, but skipping this step can cost you hundreds in fines — or worse, a visit from the fire department.
Different cities have wildly different rules. Where I live, you need to keep any fire pit at least 15 feet from any structure, but I've seen codes that require 25 feet in drier regions. Some places ban wood-burning pits entirely during summer months, while others only allow gas-fired models. You also need to check HOA rules if you're in a neighborhood with one — they often have their own restrictions that go beyond city codes. I always tell people to call their local fire department's non-emergency line and ask directly. They'll tell you about burn bans, permit requirements, and safe distances. Don't rely on a neighbor's advice or what you saw on YouTube. I made that mistake once and almost had to dismantle my entire setup. Codes exist for a reason, and they're usually based on real fire incidents in your area. Take ten minutes to make a phone call — it'll save you a world of hassle later.
Choosing the Right Fire Pit Materials and Location
This is where most people make their first mistake. They pick a fire pit based on looks or price, without thinking about how heat behaves. Does the material actually contain the fire safely? That's the question you need to answer before buying anything.
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Materials That Handle the Heat
Not all materials can take the heat. Stone, brick, and thick steel are your best bets. Thin metal bowls warp after a few uses, and concrete blocks can crack and explode if they trap moisture inside.
Let me break this down with a quick comparison based on what I've seen work and fail over the years. Stone and brick are the gold standard for permanent fire pits because they absorb and radiate heat evenly without breaking down. But you need to use fire-rated stone or refractory brick — regular patio pavers contain air pockets that expand and shatter when heated. Steel fire pits are great for portability, but look for at least 1/8-inch thick steel. Anything thinner and you'll get warping within a season. Cast iron holds heat beautifully but rusts if you leave it uncovered. Here's a table that sums up the main options:
| Material | Heat Resistance | Durability | Approximate Cost | Maintenance Level |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fire-rated Stone/Brick | Excellent — up to 2000°F | Very High — lasts decades | $600–$2,500 | Low — occasional mortar repair |
| Thick Steel (1/8 inch+) | Good — up to 1000°F | High — 5–10 years with care | $150–$600 | Medium — needs rust protection |
| Cast Iron | Excellent — up to 1800°F | Very High — lifetime with care | $200–$800 | Medium — requires seasoning and rust prevention |
| Thin Steel / Aluminum | Poor — warps above 600°F | Low — 1–3 seasons | $50–$150 | Low — but you'll replace it often |
According to a survey by the Hearth, Patio & Barbecue Association, about 35-45% of fire pit owners reported material failure within the first two years when using non-rated materials. That's a huge number. I've personally replaced a thin steel pit for a friend after it warped so badly the fire logs rolled out. Spend a little more upfront on quality materials and you won't have to worry about structural failure while people are sitting around it. For a permanent build, I always recommend fire-rated stone with a steel fire ring insert — it gives you the best of both worlds.
Where to Place Your Fire Pit
Location is everything. You want a spot that's flat, open, and far enough from anything that burns. Never put a fire pit under a tree canopy or inside a covered patio — that's just asking for trouble.
I tell people to imagine the worst-case scenario: a big gust of wind sends sparks flying in every direction. Where do those sparks land? If the answer is "on dry leaves," "on the roof," or "on your neighbor's lawn furniture," then you've picked the wrong spot. A good rule of thumb is 10–15 feet from any structure, but check your local codes because some areas require 25 feet. You also need to think about the ground surface. Grass dries out quickly near a fire and can ignite from radiant heat. Dirt, gravel, or stone pavers are your safest bet. I've seen people set up fire pits on concrete patios, and that's fine as long as the concrete doesn't have cracks where moisture can collect — trapped moisture turns to steam and can cause spalling. Portable fire pits need especially stable ground. I once watched a pit tip over because one leg sank into soft soil. The whole thing spilled hot coals across the lawn. Nobody got hurt, but it could have been a disaster with kids or pets nearby. Level the ground, use a fire-resistant mat underneath, and make sure the pit sits perfectly flat before you light it.
Fire Pit Safety Tips
Once your fire pit is set up correctly, the next challenge is using it safely. Have you ever thought about what happens when a fire pit gets too hot for the ground underneath it? That's one of those things you don't consider until it's too late. Let's go through the practical stuff that keeps everyone safe while you enjoy the evening.
Safe Lighting and Fuel Practices
Never — and I mean never — use lighter fluid or gasoline to start a fire. It's dangerous, and the flames can flare up instantly. Use kindling, newspaper, or a natural fire starter instead. You want a slow, controlled build-up of heat, not an explosion.
I've seen people pour lighter fluid on a fire that was already burning, and the flashback nearly caught their sleeve on fire. That's the kind of mistake that lands people in the ER. Instead, use the "teepee" method with dry kindling in the center and larger logs arranged around it. Light the kindling at the bottom, and let the fire grow naturally. If you need to restart a dying fire, add small pieces of dry wood gradually — don't smother it with a huge log. Also, pay attention to what you're burning. Softwoods like pine, cedar, or spruce pop and throw sparks because they have pockets of resin that explode when heated. Hardwoods like oak, hickory, or maple burn cleaner and produce fewer sparks. And please, don't burn trash, pressure-treated wood, or anything with glue or chemicals. Those release toxic fumes that you and your guests will breathe in directly. I always keep a stack of seasoned hardwood next to my fire pit, split into small and medium pieces so I can control the burn rate. It makes a huge difference in both safety and enjoyment.
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Materials That Handle the Heat
Keep children and pets at least three feet away from the fire pit at all times. I know it's tempting to let them sit close, but a sudden movement or a spark can cause serious burns. Designate a "safe zone" with chairs or a rope so everyone knows where the boundary is.
I host fire pit nights regularly, and I've learned that clear rules prevent accidents. Before anyone sits down, I explain that the fire pit gets hot enough to melt synthetic fabrics instantly — like those camping chairs with polyester webbing. One of my friends learned that the hard way when his chair leg melted from being too close. For kids, I set up a separate seating area about five feet back with their own chairs and snacks. They feel included but stay out of the danger zone. Pets are trickier because they don't understand heat. Dogs especially will walk right up to the fire pit to investigate smells, and their paw pads can burn in seconds. I keep my dog on a leash or inside when the fire is going. If you have a very social dog that likes to wander, consider a portable pet gate to create a barrier. Also, watch out for loose clothing, scarves, and long hair — these can catch fire from a stray ember before you even notice. Tie back long hair, avoid synthetic fabrics, and keep blankets folded on your lap, not trailing on the ground. A little bit of awareness goes a long way toward making the evening safe and fun for everyone.
Emergency Preparedness and What to Do If Something Goes Wrong
You can do everything right and still face an emergency. That's not being pessimistic — it's being prepared. What's the one thing you should have within arm's reach every time you light a fire? A fire extinguisher or a fire blanket. Don't assume you'll have time to run inside and grab one.
Keeping Fire Safety Gear Handy
I keep a Class A:B:C fire extinguisher within 10 feet of my fire pit at all times. I also have a fire blanket hanging nearby — it's great for smothering small fires or wrapping around someone whose clothes catch fire. You can't put out a grease fire with water, and you can't put out a wood fire with a wet towel. Use the right tools.
Most people don't realize that a garden hose isn't always the best option. Water on a hot fire creates steam and can spread burning embers. Plus, if you pour water on a metal fire pit that's extremely hot, the rapid cooling can crack the metal or cause it to warp. A fire extinguisher gives you a controlled way to put out flames without causing secondary damage. I check mine every month to make sure the pressure gauge is in the green zone. Fire blankets are cheaper and easier to store — I have two, one near the pit and one in the garage. According to the National Fire Protection Association, about 20-30% of outdoor fire incidents involve injuries from improper extinguishing attempts. That's a statistic you don't want to be part of. Also, keep a bucket of sand nearby. Sand smothers flames effectively and doesn't create steam. I use a large metal bucket with a lid so the sand stays dry. If you have a portable fire pit, make sure the legs are stable and the pit won't tip over if someone bumps into it. I've seen a fire pit tip from a dog running into it — the sand bucket saved the day because we could smother the spilled coals instantly.
How to Properly Extinguish and Dispose of Ashes
Never leave a fire pit unattended, even if you think it's almost out. Embers can stay hot for 12 to 24 hours under a layer of ash. I always douse the fire with water, stir the ashes, and douse again until I see no steam or smoke.
Here's the method I use after every fire pit session. First, I spread the remaining wood and coals with a metal poker to expose all the hot spots. Then I slowly pour water over everything — not a flood, just enough to soak the ashes. Stir the ashes thoroughly with the poker to make sure water reaches every ember. If I still see steam, I add more water. Once everything is cool to the touch — and I mean cool enough that you can put your hand an inch above it — I transfer the ashes to a dedicated metal ash bucket with a tight-fitting lid. Never use a plastic bucket or a cardboard box for hot ashes. I keep the ash bucket outside, at least 10 feet from any structure, for at least 48 hours before disposing of them. Even then, I check the bucket for warmth before taking it to the curb. If you have a portable fire pit, you can tilt it to dump out water and ashes, but make sure the ground underneath is non-flammable. I've also seen people use a metal scoop to transfer ashes directly into the bucket without spreading them around. One last thing — check local regulations for ash disposal. Some municipalities don't allow ashes in regular trash because they can cause fires in garbage trucks. A little extra caution here prevents a disaster that starts long after the fire pit has gone cold.
Choosing the Right Fire Pit Type for Your Needs
You might think all fire pits work the same, but the type you pick changes everything about safety and convenience. Should you go with a wood-burning pit or a gas-powered one? That's the first big decision you'll face, and it affects how often you'll use the thing and how much work you put into keeping it safe.
Photos provided by pixabay
Materials That Handle the Heat
There's nothing quite like the smell of real wood smoke on a cool evening. But wood pits demand more attention — you're managing sparks, ash, and a fire that doesn't just shut off with a switch.
I've helped a dozen friends set up wood-burning pits, and the ones who love them the most are the people who enjoy the ritual of building and tending a fire. You get a bigger flame, more heat, and that authentic campfire vibe that gas just can't replicate. But here's the trade-off: you produce a lot of ash and smoke, which means more cleanup and more potential for sparks to fly out. I always recommend a spark screen or mesh cover for any wood-burning pit — it's a simple mesh dome that sits over the top and catches embers before they escape. According to a survey by the Hearth, Patio & Barbecue Association, about 40-50% of wood pit owners reported that a spark screen prevented at least one close call with a nearby flammable object. I've had that exact experience myself. One windy night, a spark landed on my sleeve, and the screen stopped a dozen more from reaching the dry grass around my patio. You also need to store firewood properly — keep it at least 10 feet from the pit and covered to stay dry. Wet wood creates more smoke and pops violently, which increases the risk of ember showers. If you're the kind of person who doesn't mind spending 15 minutes setting up and cleaning up, a wood-burning pit is a rewarding choice. Just be ready to stay alert the whole time it's burning.
Gas Fire Pits: Convenience and Control
Gas fire pits turn on and off with a button or a key. No smoke, no ash, and way fewer sparks. You trade the campfire smell for a safer, more predictable experience. I've seen families with young kids switch to gas and never look back.
I'll be honest — I was skeptical about gas fire pits at first. I thought they'd feel fake and cold. But after installing one for a friend who has three kids under six, I changed my mind. Gas pits produce a steady, controllable flame that you can adjust with a knob, which means no surprise flare-ups and no smoke blowing into someone's face. The biggest safety advantage is that you can kill the flame instantly if something goes wrong. With wood, you're stuck waiting for it to burn down or dumping water on it, which creates steam and mess. Gas pits also eliminate flying sparks almost entirely — the flame burns cleanly above the burner, and there's no popping or crackling to send embers flying. According to the National Fire Protection Association, gas fire pits are involved in about 60-70% fewer accidental ignition incidents compared to wood-burning models. That's a huge difference. But gas isn't perfect. You need to check for gas leaks regularly — I use a soap-and-water solution on the connections every month. And you have to be careful about the propane tank placement. Never store a full or empty tank inside your house or garage. I keep mine outside in a ventilated metal cage, at least 10 feet from the house. One more thing: gas pits don't produce as much radiant heat as wood fires, so you'll need to sit closer or layer up on colder nights. For me, the trade-off is worth it for the peace of mind.
| Feature | Wood-Burning Fire Pit | Gas Fire Pit |
|---|---|---|
| Heat Output | High — up to 60,000 BTUs | Moderate to High — 30,000–50,000 BTUs |
| Sparks and Embers | Common — requires spark screen | Rare to none |
| Smoke and Ash | Significant smoke and ash | None |
| Ignition Control | Manual — requires lighting and tending | Instant — push button or key |
| Maintenance per Use | Medium — ash removal, wood stacking | Low — check connections, clean burner |
| Typical Cost (installed) | $300–$1,500 | $500–$3,000 |
| Incident Rate (relative) | Higher — about 2-3x more incidents | Lower — fewer accidental ignitions |
Seasonal Maintenance and Long-Term Care
Fire pits don't take care of themselves. Ever wonder if your fire pit needs more than just a quick cleanup before winter hits? Neglecting seasonal maintenance is one of the fastest ways to turn a safe setup into a dangerous one. A little work every few months keeps everything in good shape.
Winterizing Your Fire Pit
Cold weather can wreck a fire pit if you don't prep it right. Moisture freezes, expands, and cracks stone or metal. I've seen beautiful stone pits turn into rubble after one bad winter because the owner didn't cover them properly.
Here's what I do every fall before the first freeze. For a permanent stone or brick pit, I remove all ash and debris, then cover it with a heavy-duty, waterproof cover that breathes — not a tarp that traps moisture underneath. Trapped moisture is the enemy. It seeps into small cracks, freezes, and expands, making those cracks bigger over time. I also check the mortar between stones and patch any gaps before winter sets in. For metal fire pits, I give them a thorough cleaning with a wire brush to remove rust spots, then apply a thin layer of high-heat paint or cooking oil to protect the surface. If you have a portable steel or cast iron pit, store it in a dry place like a shed or garage. But never store it directly on concrete — moisture wicks up from the concrete and causes rust on the bottom. I put mine on wooden pallets or rubber mats. Gas fire pits need special attention to the gas line. I shut off the propane tank valve completely, disconnect the line, and store the tank in a ventilated outdoor cage. For natural gas pits, I turn off the gas supply at the source and clean the burner ports to prevent insect nests from blocking them. According to the Chimney Safety Institute of America, about 15-25% of fire pit failures in spring are caused by moisture damage that built up over winter. Spending an hour on winterizing saves you from buying a new pit or repairing a cracked one in April.
Cleaning and Inspecting Before Each Season
Don't just uncover your fire pit and light it up. I always do a quick inspection in spring and a deeper one in fall. A few minutes of checking saves you from surprises like a cracked bowl or a clogged gas line.
I start by looking at the fire pit structure itself. For stone or brick pits, I run my hand over the surface and look for loose stones, crumbling mortar, or cracks that could let heat escape in dangerous ways. If I find a crack wider than a dime, I call a mason before using it again. For metal pits, I check for rust spots, especially around the bottom where heat and moisture collect. Surface rust is fine — I sand it off and repaint. But deep rust holes mean the metal is compromised, and you should replace the pit. I also check the legs or base of any portable pit to make sure they're still stable. I've seen a pit tip over because one leg rusted through and snapped under the weight of logs. Next, I clean out any debris that accumulated over winter — leaves, twigs, dirt, even animal nests. I once found a mouse nest inside a gas burner tube. That would have been a disaster if I'd lit it without checking. For gas pits, I use a soft brush to clean the burner ports and make sure gas flows evenly. Then I do a leak test with soapy water on every connection. Never skip the leak test. One small leak can turn a cozy evening into an explosion risk. Finally, I check the surrounding area. Over winter, branches might have grown closer, or the ground might have shifted. I clear a 10-foot radius of any dry vegetation, fallen leaves, or new furniture that appeared during the cold months. A clean, inspected pit is a safe pit.
Common Myths and Misconceptions About Fire Pit Safety
I hear the same bad advice over and over. People pick it up from social media or well-meaning friends, but some of these ideas are genuinely dangerous. Do you really need to pour water on every fire when you're done? The answer might surprise you — it depends on your setup.
The "Water Always Works" Myth
Water is not your friend in every situation. Pouring water on a hot metal pit can cause it to crack from thermal shock. And on a gas pit, water can damage the burner system and create rust that blocks gas flow.
I've seen people grab a garden hose and douse a roaring fire without thinking twice. Water extinguishes flames, but it also creates a huge steam cloud that can burn your face and hands if you're standing too close. More importantly, the rapid cooling of metal or stone can cause structural damage. I had a friend who cracked his brand new steel fire pit on the second use because he dumped a bucket of water on it. The pit warped so badly that logs rolled out of it every time he built a fire after that. For gas pits, water is even worse. It gets into the burner ports, mixes with propane residue, and causes corrosion that blocks the gas flow. The better approach is to let the fire burn down naturally if you can, and then use sand to smother the remaining coals. Sand doesn't cause thermal shock, doesn't create steam, and it contains the heat until everything cools naturally. I keep a five-gallon bucket of play sand next to my pit at all times. If I need to leave suddenly, I dump the sand over the fire, and it's out in seconds without damaging anything. For gas pits, just turn off the gas and let the flame die on its own. No water needed. The only time water is appropriate is for a wood fire that has already burned down to cool ash — and even then, I stir it in slowly and check for steam before leaving.
The "Permanent Pit Is Always Safer" Myth
People assume that a permanent stone pit is automatically safer than a portable one. But I've seen permanent pits built with the wrong materials or placed too close to structures. Safety comes from smart choices, not from being bolted to the ground.
I've inspected a few permanent fire pits that were downright scary. One was built with regular concrete blocks that had started to spall and crack after one season. The owner thought he was being safe by building something sturdy, but he'd used the wrong materials. Permanent pits give you a false sense of security because they look solid, but if the mortar is weak or the stone isn't fire-rated, they can fail catastrophically. I also saw a permanent pit that was only six feet from a wooden fence. The heat had charred the fence boards, and a single spark could have ignited the whole thing. Portable pits, on the other hand, let you move the fire away from hazards as needed. I reposition my portable pit based on wind direction — if the wind shifts, I can rotate the entire setup to keep smoke and sparks away from guests. The key is to choose the right tool for your situation. If you have a large, open yard and want a long-term investment, a permanent stone pit with fire-rated materials and a steel insert is excellent. But if you have a smaller yard or want flexibility, a quality portable pit with a stable base and spark screen is just as safe — if not safer — because you can adapt it to changing conditions. Don't let the word "permanent" fool you into ignoring the basics of placement, distance, and material quality. A well-chosen portable pit beats a poorly built permanent one every time.
E.g. ：Outdoor Fire Pit Safety Tips - Travelers Insurance
Outdoor Fire Safety - USFA.FEMA.gov
10 Essential Outdoor Fire Pit Safety Rules - HGTV
Backyard Fire Pit Safety Tips - Allstate
Wildfire Prevention Tips for Fire Pits and Outdoor Fires - NFPA
FAQs
Q: How far should a fire pit be from the house or other structures?
A: The safe distance depends on your local codes and the type of fire pit you have, but I always recommend at least 10-15 feet from any structure — and sometimes 25 feet in drier regions. I've seen people place portable pits just a few feet from their vinyl siding, and that's a recipe for disaster. Vinyl can melt from radiant heat alone, even without direct flame contact. Check your local fire department's non-emergency line for the exact requirements in your area. Also, think about overhead hazards like tree branches, patio roofs, and house overhangs. Low branches can catch fire from rising heat or stray sparks, and a fire pit under a covered patio traps smoke and heat, creating a serious fire risk. I always walk around the proposed spot and look up — you'd be surprised how many people forget about what's above them. A good rule of thumb: if you can't see the open sky directly above your fire pit, you're too close to something.
Q: What materials should I avoid when building or buying a fire pit?
A: You want to avoid thin steel, aluminum, concrete blocks, and any material that isn't specifically rated for high heat. I've seen too many people buy cheap fire pits from big-box stores that warp after just a few uses — the metal bends, the fire rolls out, and suddenly you're chasing burning logs across your lawn. Regular concrete blocks and patio pavers are also dangerous because they trap moisture inside. When heated, that moisture turns to steam and expands, causing the block to crack or even explode. I once had a friend's concrete fire pit send a chunk of stone flying across the yard — luckily nobody was sitting nearby. Stick with fire-rated stone, refractory brick, or thick steel (at least 1/8-inch thick). Cast iron is excellent for heat retention but needs rust protection. If you're building a permanent pit, use a steel fire ring insert inside a stone or brick shell — that combination gives you the best heat containment and longevity. Spend a little more upfront and you won't have to replace it every couple of years.
Q: Is it safe to use lighter fluid or gasoline to start a fire pit?
A: Absolutely not — never use lighter fluid or gasoline to start or accelerate a fire in a fire pit. I can't stress this enough because I've seen the aftermath of this mistake firsthand. One guy I know poured lighter fluid on a fire that was already smoldering, and the flashback ignited the entire bottle in his hand. He ended up with second-degree burns on his arm and a trip to the emergency room. Gasoline is even worse — it creates explosive vapors that can ignite from a spark several feet away. Instead, use the "teepee" method with dry kindling at the center and smaller logs arranged around it. Light the kindling at the bottom with a long-reach lighter or a match, and let the fire build naturally. If you need to revive a dying fire, add small pieces of dry hardwood gradually — don't smother it with a big log or pour accelerants on it. I always keep a stash of dry kindling and natural fire starters in a waterproof container next to my fire pit. It takes an extra two minutes to build a proper fire, and that time investment saves you from a potential disaster.
Q: How do I keep children and pets safe around a fire pit?
A: The most important rule is to keep children and pets at least three feet away from the fire pit at all times, and I recommend setting up a designated "safe zone" with chairs or a visible boundary. I host fire pit nights regularly, and before anyone sits down, I explain that the fire pit gets hot enough to melt synthetic fabrics instantly — like those camping chairs with polyester webbing. One of my friends learned that the hard way when his chair leg melted from being too close. For kids, I set up a separate seating area about five feet back with their own chairs and snacks. They feel included but stay out of the danger zone. Pets are trickier because they don't understand heat — dogs especially will walk right up to the fire pit to investigate smells, and their paw pads can burn in seconds. I keep my dog on a leash or inside when the fire is going. If you have a very social dog that likes to wander, consider a portable pet gate to create a barrier. Also, watch out for loose clothing, scarves, and long hair — these can catch fire from a stray ember before you even notice. Tie back long hair, avoid synthetic fabrics, and keep blankets folded on your lap, not trailing on the ground.
Q: What should I do if a fire pit fire gets out of control?
A: First, stay calm and call 911 immediately — don't try to fight a large fire by yourself. For small fires, use a Class A:B:C fire extinguisher, a fire blanket, or a bucket of sand to smother the flames. I keep a fire extinguisher within 10 feet of my fire pit at all times, and I check the pressure gauge monthly to make sure it's in the green zone. Never use water on a grease fire or on a fire in a metal pit that's extremely hot — the rapid cooling can crack the metal and spread burning embers. I've also seen people try to beat out flames with a wet towel, which just creates steam and spreads sparks. Fire blankets are great because you can drape them over small fires to cut off oxygen, and they work on clothing fires too. If someone's clothes catch fire, remember "stop, drop, and roll" — don't run. I always keep a bucket of dry sand nearby because sand smothers flames effectively without creating steam. According to the National Fire Protection Association, about 20-30% of outdoor fire incidents involve injuries from improper extinguishing attempts. That's a statistic you don't want to be part of. Practice using your extinguisher once so you know how it works, and make sure everyone in your household knows where the safety gear is stored.
